Thread bunching under the fabric
A nest of thread underneath is almost always the top thread, not the bobbin. Rethread with the presser foot raised.
Find your sewing machine
Threading, bobbin, tension, cleaning and oiling guides for ten home sewing machines and sergers.
Most bad stitches come down to one of five things: the top thread missed a guide, the bobbin went in the wrong way, the needle is the wrong system or is bent, the tension is off, or lint has packed the hook. Which fix applies, and how, depends on the machine. Start with yours.
Machines by era
Computerized
Sergers
Common stitch problems
Pick the problem you are seeing.
Skipped stitches
The needle comes first: new, the right size and type, the right way round, pushed fully up. Then threading, lint and foot pressure.
Upper thread keeps breaking
Rethread, check the spool and pin, ease the tension, fit a larger needle, then look for a burr on the plate, foot or hook.
Setting top and bobbin tension
How to read a stitch, why rethreading comes before the dial, and the starting numbers each manufacturer gives.
Needle not picking up the bobbin thread
If no loop comes up when you turn the handwheel, the hook never caught the top thread. Needle, bobbin direction, then threading.
Hook timing on vintage Singers
A Featherweight, 15-91 or 401A that still skips after a new needle and fresh threading can be checked against the timing marks on its needle bar. See the 221, 15-91 and 401A pages.
Needles, bobbins and oil for each machine
Buy the right ones before you start.
| Machine | Era | Needle system | Bobbin | Owner oiling |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Singer Featherweight 221 | Vintage | 15x1, flat side left | Featherweight bobbin 45785 (own type) | Yes. Daily with continuous use; motor grease only |
| Singer 15-91 | Vintage | 15x1, flat side left | Class 15, metal; case 125291 | Yes. Daily with continuous use; motor grease yearly |
| Singer 401A Slant-o-Matic | Vintage | 15x1, flat side back | Class 66 (172222, retailer) | Yes. Oil after each cleaning; grease on gears |
| Singer Heavy Duty 4423 | Modern mechanical | Singer styles 2020, 2045, 2032 (no system stated) | Singer Class 15 transparent (D2134) | Not covered by Singer's manual |
| Brother XM2701 | Modern mechanical | Home sewing machine needles; Brother names Schmetz 130/705H | Brother SA156, Class 15 type, plastic | No. Brother says the owner must not oil it |
| Brother LX3817 | Modern mechanical | Home sewing machine needles (Brother names no system) | Brother SA156, Class 15 type, plastic | No. Brother says the owner must not oil it |
| Janome HD3000 | Modern mechanical | 15x1 (retailer); Janome Blue Tip 200346007 | Janome 102261103 (Class 15 per retailer) | Not covered by Janome's book; cleaning only |
| Juki TL-2010Q | Modern mechanical | HAx1 (130/705H) or HLx5; flat face right | Juki L style, metal (A9117-007-000) | Yes. Once a day if used daily |
| Brother CS7000X | Computerized | Home sewing machine needles, 65/9 to 100/16 | Brother SA156, Class 15 type, plastic | No. Brother says the owner must not oil it |
| Brother 1034D | Sergers | SCHMETZ 130/705H | None (two loopers) | Yes. Once or twice a month, weekly with heavy use |
Own a machine that is not here?
Send the model number from the plate or sticker and, if you can, the serial number. We use requests to decide which machines to add next.